Steve mentioned that just general fitness is going to be really helpful and if that’s all you’ve got available right now then we should be doing some of that. Can you give me an example of an exercise you can put a lot of skill into? We can really build body awareness by doing lots of different things. When you weight it with your feet you sort of move your body almost into a position like you’re on a steep board, so depending on where you place it maybe 20-45°. The S. D. Bechtel Jr. Foundation and the Stephen Bechtel Fund support many non-profit groups, especially in the San Francisco Bay area. Get the latest blog posts, podcast episodes, and other training resources in your inbox.. You mentioned motivationally and I want to pivot to motivation because it seems to be on a lot of peoples’ minds. They don’t play, is really what is happening. If you want somebody to tell you, ‘Do this exercise then this exercise and then this one for this long, and then rest, and then do it again, then put your fingers on this grip of the hangboard and hold on for this long,’ that’s what the ebook is all about. I think that was a pretty thorough answer to that question. It is what it is.’. I think, as Steve said, one of the things that’s really important to realize is that most people go from this balance where they put aside a certain part of their week where they might do some quite focused work where they’re trying to make improvements, so what we put in the ‘training’ envelope, and then another part of the week will just be in the ‘general practice/having fun/unstructured work’ and that will go on that side of things. Tom Randall: I guess I can go on the fingerboard at the same time, yeah? The thing that is really important for people to understand is that with isometrics, anything over about 70% of your maximum is still going to provide a strength stimulus. Most of us are used to doing a 1 second down/1 second up push-up or the same thing with our pull-ups. I’m keen to do a mixture of flexibility and mobility work but I think it’s really good to do some weighted work as well for the higher end climbers. Figure out about how strong your fingers are. The kids have assignments from their teachers, they have Zoom meetings with their teachers, so finding a schedule and sharing one big calendar between our whole family has been really helpful. !” Opening it, I saw no fewer than 20 paragraphs describing how the sender wasn’t sending despite “religiously” following one of the plans I’d put together. We have a location just outside of Sheffield where everyone is on a daily basis and now that place is quiet. I’ll do that and like I was telling Tom earlier, Ellen and I are the only two people who are coming to our gym right now so unlike most other people, I have way more than just a hangboard to train on. If you were someone who did 1-2 days of training and this was focused work, previously to the situation we’re in now, do not suddenly try to put it up to 3-4-5 days of focused training. Tom Randall always has great information and blog posts and podcast episodes and information for everybody to use right now. It just works the muscles in a different manner. I want to know what you guys think is too much for people to be doing right now, in terms of how many hangboard sessions and how many strength workouts per week. Can you give me an example of some of the workouts that you’re having people do with very little equipment available? They are three of the most well-known trainers in climbing, and having them all sit for the same interview and answer the same questions created a wealth of knowledge and wisdom for us all. You can kind of pull it out of the bag for one week or two weeks when you really make massive changes but some of us might be down there for four weeks, eight weeks, maybe even longer in some countries. It’s just a really nice tool to use if you have no weights. In my situation I work from home and I’m usually here by myself all day and now I have my wife, who is a social worker at the schools here in Lander, at home and doing Zoom meetings with her colleagues as well as with students. Yeah, actually I do. It just seems to be the way that we’re made and it’s going to be a function of our history and how long we’ve been climbing for, whether it’s 5 years, 10 years, 20 years, so first of all don’t panic. If you’re going to do some weights stuff just make it really easy to get hold of. by Steve Bechtel, Charlie Mangniello, et al. They’ve all been on the show several times before and they’ll tell you all about themselves in the intro of the podcast and then we’re going to get into the questions. ‎Show The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast, Ep Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall on Training at Home - Apr 9, 2020 Was it not? Steve Bechtel (March 19, 1970) is a rock climber with first ascents all over the world. Kris? People are going to go, ‘I’m going to get really good at push-ups now or I’m going to get really super, mobile shoulders.’ You can only adapt so much. The idea there is just getting some amount of low, low, low intensity loading onto those hands but you’re not going to want to do that for a super long time. Again, I have a lot of respect for all of those guys and I really appreciate them being on the show together. Steve Bechtel: I’m @stevebechtel on Instagram and you can find all of our training information at climbstrong.com. Don’t try and overload it. We’re just going to try to help you as much as possible. I did zero for two weeks. You’ve got enzyme activity, mitochondrial function, and capillarization, so delivery of oxygenated blood at a localized level in the muscle. We always have had a lot of structure, my wife Ellen and I, with our coaching and training. Go maybe one minute of max hang work in total, in terms of those intervals and time under tension, but break the other part down and do some repeaters, so some lower intensity work. We provide resources and information about training for routes, bouldering, finger strength, mental training, nutrition for climbers, and everything in between. Noté /5. It hasn’t affected me all that much other than my daughter just had a baby two days ago and I wasn’t able to go there and be there for that. Stephen's uncle Kenneth K. Bechtel was awarded the Silver Buffalo in 1950 and served as National president of the Boy Scouts of America from 1956–1959. Tom Randall: Damn. I think very often we get into a mindset of, ‘How much can I take? I am Kris Hampton. He will be presenting on Simplified Program Design and Advances in … I’m actually going to stay on you because I don’t want you to feel like you’re last every time. I’ve actually even been looking for ways to stay motivated. I think that as long as we’re intentional and aware in whatever our training is, it’s going to be helpful for skill down the road. Neely Quinn: Okay. I’ll have a phone call at this time, I have to do programming at this time, so we each had a calendar that we worked from anyway. Or are you putting in max hangs? Those things speed up your process quite a bit. If you’re not going to get back to the route that you’re excited about that you need that endurance for until the fall, then maybe you don’t need to be so concerned about hanging onto that endurance right now. BELLE CENTER — Steve and Janet Bechtel, of Belle Center, recently purchased this 1937 Ford Cabriolet from an estate sale in Florida. We know it’s not going to give you specific, local forearm muscular endurance, but activity on any level that promotes the ability to uptake oxygen and keep your heart conditioned well, keep your muscles good at processing oxygen and utilizing fat is very, very useful. Maybe I’m just giving you credit for something. Your body really loved that before so copy it because it works. It’s got me into trouble a few times, depending on what type of Therabands you use. I think that’s a good time, if you have a home wall, if you have a fingerboard, whatever it is, come up with some performance challenges for yourself rather than continuing to train. We’re really limited in that way. I’d say for the first two weeks it was total – well, that’s probably doing my wife a misservice – havoc in my head but kind of quite organized in Kim’s head. It’s all over for me. How has this pandemic affected you and your business? I was totally joking but that was a really great answer to my dumb joke. Steve Bechtel: We use a lot of different loading protocols. Tom Randall: I think these guys have covered most of it, really. Some of the reports are that people are ¼-⅓ as active as they were pre-quarantine and they tend to eat badly. The following programs are the ones that we think are most helpful during this time of at-home training. If you can check in on that it really keeps the stoke going and it’s nice to do that on occasions like this. Neely Quinn: Okay. It is hard to deal with that and a lot of people struggle with it in terms of motivation so perhaps just setting yourself up in a motivational sense. I think these guys have covered most of it, really. We’re trying to make sure he gets an hour or two a day, just like we are, in some Zoom meeting with a friend just talking about nothing. Those are two things that we don’t really think about. Doing things like going out and playing soccer with your kids or walking on a balance beam or if you can still go to the park, doing those sorts of things is going to hold on to that a little bit. If we look at it as a percentage of your maximum finger strength, you’re not real close to that, even on hard climbs. I’m going to ask about how that’s affecting your training and how other people in the same situation can go about continuing to train through that. Steve Bechtel is presenting at the upcoming Virtual Performance Climbing Coach Summit! I guess I can go on the fingerboard at the same time, yeah? Fifteen years ago we never imagined it. Steve Bechtel’s 3-6-9 Ladders hangboard finger strength training. Really, we’re fighting to make sure the kids have the time they need and that we’re nurturing them in that same way. What I was thinking is if I look at my system board session I might spend 6-8 minutes of contact time on my system board and that’s my session. Project Description Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall on Best Practices for Training at Home. Yeah, I know for me one of my biggest motivators is I don’t want to suck really bad when I come out of this. Steve just put out a new bodyweight program. Stay healthy and safe and hopefully I’ll see you under different circumstances soon. I need somebody to just tell me what to do with training because I don’t like thinking about it. I just think it’s awesome. I’ll tell people where they can find you. I’ll have a phone call at this time, I have to do programming at this time, so we each had a calendar that we worked from anyway. Structuring all of that stuff is very much like planning your training or planning your work but it now involves, for us, four people rather than just one or two. Like Tom alluded to, you don’t necessarily have to be motivated, you know? Those are expensive to maintain so when we stop doing endurance activity with a certain muscle group, like our forearms, that tends to de-train pretty quickly. I’m just going to try to talk about how people should be training at home, what to focus on, how to keep motivated, those kinds of things. It’s good to put challenges within exercises themselves because it challenges you mentally and I think it’s good to not end up becoming that climber who is just the wooden plank that is really good at hanging off an edge but literally moves like a metal fork. Stephen Davison Bechtel Jr. (born May 10, 1925) is an American billionaire businessman, civil engineer, and co-owner of the Bechtel Corporation, with his son Riley. I have three guests and I have never had three guests before so we’re going to try to be as organized about this as possible. The half-life, so the training loss or the detraining that you have, which occurs in both the enzyme activity and the mitochondrial function in a muscle, is really fast. That’s personally what I like. I’m going to move on to one of the last questions. Steve Bechtel: You know, it’s real interesting. Sometimes you can drift and there’s so much noise going on and everything is so different every day and it’s really hard to focus. It is what it is.’. We need to look at a 3-week or a 4-week phase rather than, ‘What am I going to do every single day to try to improve?’. Varying the protocols every few weeks or when it looks like someone is plateauing in what they’re doing, and just switching it up to keep people interested, to keep people as motivated as we can, and to continue seeing gains. One of the great things you could do now and it’s very, very easy, is to dial in your eating. Yeah, if you go to the climbing gym for two hours normally then you’re like, ‘Oh, I climbed for two hours.’ Actually, you’re climbing for five minutes every 25 minutes or five minutes every 15 minutes and it’s probably at a fairly low load. You can be away from climbing for six months or eight months and then all of a sudden you’re right back into it. Then on the hangboards I think the lower intensity stuff is the ticket and we’re right in the same parameters that Tom suggested, unloading things or going for very short sessions. There’s movement flows and all sorts of calisthenic things that you can practice and really spend time being intentional in those things, instead of just going through the motions. If you always say, “Yeah, I’m going to get out of bed at 7:00 in the morning and I’m going to exercise for an hour,” it’s very, very critical that you put that into your day. It’s just a dead office and we’re all just now working off our computers from home. Our schedules have clashed a little bit and I’ve found myself getting frustrated that my normal schedule has been totally disrupted in that way. Steve Bechtel, Jr., (pictured)led the global engineering and construction firm his father Warren founded until 1990. Can you guys tell me the cons of that? Do you think there is any way to do that at home? I think lots and lots of days of max hangs on a hangboard in a row is a great idea. I see my next door neighbor taking calls in his car in his driveway. I know this is very different for everybody but in general, do you have any recommendations on that just to keep people from totally messing themselves up? I had asked all of you guys to give me some common questions from your audience and Tom, one of them that you gave me was, ‘What to do at home if you’re faced with scenarios where you have very little weight; dumbbells, discs, or kettlebells.’ Do you want to talk about that for the people who have very little equipment? That’s all I’ve got for you today. It just works the muscles in a different manner. It’s always arms above the head, fingers in however many positions, so it’s really easy to overload the tissues. Pay attention to the aspect of when they’re in the sun, when it’s good for you to be on your project, when it’s good for your partner to be on their project, and plan out the season as best as you can. How to be motivated without current performance goal. Well, I think number one I would say, “When is the next time you’re going to need to access it?” We know that endurance is a quality that is really easy to get back once you’ve lost a little. I agree with Tom totally that you should try to take what you were doing before and keep that same level, that same frequency, and not ramp it up massively. Most people don’t have to work very much for as much money as they make, or as they did in the past. Actually, if you really look at it, you might only do 1-2 moves each time you get on that system board that are at really high intensity. You can come up with a pretty good cycle of two days a week hangboard, two days a week of bodyweight training, and five days a week of general aerobic capacity training. Cycling down to that 70% load and understanding that that, too, is increasing your strength is really a positive there. It feels like you’re on a board. [8], Bechtel was elected a Fellow of the American Academy of Arts and Sciences in 1990. [laughs] No, that’s actually interesting because that’s part of getting up early. Kris is a very good teacher and he has a lot of important and useful things to say so definitely check out his website. Do you think there is any way to do that at home? You can do a session of that a week, or once every other week, and have plenty of base for your endurance when you need to pick it back up down the road. Talk to you soon. I was totally joking but that was a really great answer to my dumb joke. What happens when we try to replace it minute-for-minute with hangboard training is hangboard training is, by its very essence, super high intensity. Stay healthy and safe and hopefully I’ll see you under different circumstances soon. Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, Tom Randall: Thank you, Neely. What a lot of people are finding themselves in now is they have all of that space now and it’s suddenly in this ‘training’ envelope. Don’t try and train. Also, isometrics are great. I understand there’s a certain level of emotional cost to this whole thing but this is so easy compared to any other eventuality. I think it’s really good for people to kind of be given permission to not need to achieve huge things right now. Stuff that’s more akin to regeneration work, ARC, aero-cap work, down at 30, 35, 40% work. I’d say for the first two weeks it was total – well, that’s probably doing my wife a misservice – havoc in my head but kind of quite organized in Kim’s head. I love it. It’s really going to affect that so be a little bit realistic about how much you’re trying to go after those high-end goals to do with climbing if you can’t deal with your own health or you can’t deal with the money that you normally bring in every month. Bechtel donated $50 million towards the new base which has been named The Summit Bechtel Family National Scout Reserve. You might have a backpack that you can fill with books. I’ve been hearing about people who can’t even get weights on eBay and is it called Craigslist in the US? I’m your host, Neely Quinn, and unfortunately right now a lot of us are not able to take part in our favorite sport because unfortunately COVID-19 is still a pandemic in our world and a lot of us are on lockdown, including myself. Who are you? Kris? Is it possible to still train skills or climbing movement? Project Description . Even watch Tiger King, even though everyone already has. I think it’s quite a good way of looking at this, like thinking, ‘What can I get away with?’ and it’s a good way to baseline what you would put into your training regime back at home. I think that’s good for our psyche as well as for our bodies. It’s quite interesting if you drop one foot out and you just do it with one foot on, that’s a way that suddenly makes a very, very standard fingerboard endurance workout where you put your feet on a solid object like a chair, if you do it on a moveable object where things move around, it adds a skill level into it. [laughs] Okay, cool. I don’t have my fingerboard in the cellar, for example, where all of the cracks are, I have it next to the kitchen. In 1998 Stephen and his son Riley were presented with the Honor Award from the National Building Museum for their company's contributions to the built environment. I’m stuck. We’re not really supposed to be leaving our houses to go anywhere. For people out there who are now faced with homeschooling and possibly working from home, what advice do you have for them about time management and anything else about motivation to keep training? I think it’s really good for people to kind of be given permission to not need to achieve huge things right now. Steve Bechtel: I think lots and lots of days of max hangs on a hangboard in a row is a great idea. All of those guys have created really great resources for you through this time. It went from this amazing family where I felt so connected to everyone that I worked with to this really strange distant thing, which we’re used to with clients but interpersonally with the team it’s really weird. Richard Nixon named him to membership on the National Industrial Pollution Control Council, the National Commission on Productivity, the Labor Management Advisory Committee, and the National Commission for Industrial Peace. I hope you do, too. I don’t want to give away my home address. All I want to do is watch TV.’. Date: April 9th, 2020. Tom and Steve have both talked about manipulating the time spent in certain positions or adding a cycled breath to the tough position of that bodyweight exercise. We’re always training, training, training but I think maintaining cardiorespiratory fitness and mental health is just as important at this point. You’re going to ramp right back up into it and I think the main thing to keep in mind is, ‘Yeah, I need to keep strong and keep fit and whatever else but it’s all going to come back.’. You can’t just win the battle in two weeks of suddenly changing what you’re doing at home. Neely Quinn: And Kris, what do you think about this? Like Tom and Lattice, we’re also a mostly remote, mostly online company that works with climbers. He earned his Master of Business Administration degree from the Stanford Graduate School of Business in 1948. Okay. The first question I’m going to pose is: how, in general, should people be training at home if they’re going to keep training, or should we keep training? The capillarization is the thing which I think has more value in trying to maintain. Just because you’re bored and you’re going off the walls, don’t break from that. I also have my office manager who was here staying with us for a little while and has gotten locked in with us as well. Without further adieu, here are Steve, Kris, and Tom. Times are really weird right now! In July 2007, the 10-year anniversary of her disappearance, Roger Rizor, the detective who succeeded Dave King on the case, commented on the cold case to the Billings Gazette. He’s also been somebody who has trained out of his home or at a home wall and used one kettlebell for his main training. I didn’t enjoy it but I did go, ‘You know what? We’re all able to talk to each other and see each other’s faces during this whole thing, it’s just sort of a Jetsons idea. I really love climbing on a system board, like a 40-50° system board. Neely Quinn: Okay. At a very, very reasonable level of maybe once every week or once every 10 days you can add this into your training just to try to maintain a little bit of that. It’s a hard transition to make emotionally. Kind of on the same topic of motivation is some people have new responsibilities at home, if they have children especially. Tom, what do you think about that? Tom Randall: [laughs] In answer to the question, number one would be to use your training history to inform what you do when you’re back at home. You just mentioned repeaters. Most of the things I’m doing right now are somewhat flexible. Steve Bechtel: My name is Steve Bechtel. I couldn’t believe it. Many of us are used to getting cardiovascular activity in terms of walking up to the crag with a backpack on. So I’m going to start throwing questions out there. We can really build body awareness by doing lots of different things. We can have anything sent to our house on a moment’s notice. You can still be at home and go through the guidebooks, talk to your partners, plan your next season. Born on 3/16/77 in Lincoln to Marvin and Patricia (Cunningham) Bechtel. Steve Bechtel: Tuesday and Thursday from 6:00AM-midnight. I’ve actually even been looking for ways to stay motivated. Kris is a very good teacher and he has a lot of important and useful things to say so definitely check out his website. What projects do you have that line up with someone else’s projects? Like you have to stay home and have phone and internet access and you can order food. You can do that on a hangboard, too. Tom Randall, can you tell us about yourself? [12], The S. D. Bechtel Jr. Foundation and the Stephen Bechtel Fund, National president of the Boy Scouts of America, The Summit Bechtel Family National Scout Reserve. I saw a question on your Facebook post, Neely, that I think deserves a point. Neely Quinn: Okay, great. Is that generally what you’re having people do? I think that maintaining a general aerobic or cardiorespiratory capacity is the base of it and the honed-up anaerobic power stuff that people really think of as their endurance for climbing is hard to hold onto anyway. I really love that about our community. What are you having them do? Okay. Do 8-12 progressed hangboard sessions in that mode and then switch to a different stimulus. That can be really demotivating to spend way too much time, especially working on stamina, on the hangboard. Neely Quinn: Welcome back to the show everybody. 10: Just like a candy apple, Clinton Sybert’s 1967 Ford Mustang Fastback is sweet. Be a little conservative, at least for the start, and if you’re recovering and you’re making improvements in those exercises over your time at home that’s one good indication that you’re recovering adequately. He succeeded his father Stephen Bechtel Sr. as president of Bechtel Corporation in 1960 and chairman in 1969, handing these positions over to his son Riley in 1989 and 1996 respectively. Or are you? It’s just a dead office and we’re all just now working off our computers from home. That’s personally what I like. You can do a lot of intense and moderately intense work, which I think is more balanced and will work better for you in the long run. Cool. I think this is a really big mistake, especially as people might tend to do it very quickly and kind of jump into it too fast and too hard. Damn. All of those guys have created really great resources for you through this time. His guys over at Elemental and ClimbStrong are superb trainers. Image source: Gordon Wiltsie. An example of that would be – I don’t know if you guys have ever tried this. I think a lot of people are out there wondering, ‘How am I supposed to maintain my endurance through all of this?’ Kris, what do you think about that? I’m stuck. You can develop core tension really well through bodyweight progressions and things like that. Tom Randall: I have two daughters, one who is five and one who is eight. Urban Landscape/Post Industrial Landscape Cartoon Illustrations Can you guys tell me the cons of that? Podcast is on iTunes is HERE Direct Download: LINK Date: November 25th, 2015. Maybe I’m just giving you credit for something. We hope that you’re staying safe and healthy and that we’re hopefully seeing the light at the end of the tunnel, maybe, and that we can all get back to normal lives soon. Even watch Tiger King, even though everyone already has. I’m interested in trying it now, though. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. He is also a rock climbing guidebook author and coach. Last week we actually created an ebook and Matt Pincus created a program for at-home training. Steve “Bludwynd” Bechtel, 43, from Lincoln, NE died on 5/29/2020. Sessions where you might be doing a very low intensity fingerboard session might be 25-kilos, so about 50-pounds of assistance, on a rope and pulley setup attached to your harness with the pulley going just underneath the fingerboard. We work with climbers, mostly online, all over the world from juniors all the way to adults. Then Ellen will do that on the opposite days and I’ll be at home with the kids. How are you telling your clients to stay motivated? If you don’t, just be okay with not holding onto it at its peak. They’re both off school and they now get homeschooled. [laughs] No, that’s kind of where everybody is going. If you need to do this kind of shuffle in and out of childcare and things like that, make your fingerboard in a really, really easy place. 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